Dr K C Radhaswamy’s Solo Expedition to Ladakh
For years, life had been a series of routines. Somewhere along the way, the thrill of exploration had been buried beneath the weight of daily life.
Then, one day, a conversation changed everything.
A dear friend and a mentor - a retired Army officer - visited my house after returning from his trip to Ladakh. He showed the pictures and all the beautiful experiences that he had during his journey.
The place stayed in my heart for weeks.
And then I decided to go on a solo trip to Ladakh. A land of rugged terrains, unpredictable roads, and skies so vast they seemed to stretch beyond time itself.
So, on 10th September 2023, I packed my bag and set out on an adventurous journey to the mountains.
Through War Stories and Winding Roads
My journey began in Srinagar, where the air carried stories of the past. I spent my first evening on a shikara in Dal Lake and watched the floating market come alive with colours and chatter.
As I sipped my saffron-infused Kahwa, my boatman, an elderly man shared stories about his city - of love, loss, and resilience.
“You see this lake?” he said, gesturing at the water. “It holds more than reflections. It holds memories.”
Perhaps, that was true. Perhaps travel was all about collecting stories of both our own and those of the people we meet along the way.
The next day, I left for Kargil. The drive through Zoji La Pass was exhilarating - steep drops, narrow curves, and the kind of roads that make you question your existence. But what struck me most was the Kargil War Memorial.
There, I stood before a wall of names, feeling the weight of history settle in my chest. These were the names of those who had fought and fallen so that travellers like me could roam these lands freely. As I read the names of fallen soldiers, I felt a lump in my throat. I whispered a quiet thank you and moved on.
Finding Solitude in the Land of Monasteries
From Kargil, I made my way to Leh. The monasteries here stood frozen in time, and their prayer wheels spun with the weight of centuries.
I climbed to the Shanti Stupa, and my breath ragged from the altitude, but when I reached the top, I was rewarded with a view that silenced every stray thought in my mind. The city of Leh, covered in the golden hues of sunset, stretched beneath me.
I stood there for a long time and watched the golden light dancing across the rooftops.
After that, I wandered through the bustling Leh Market, sipped butter tea and watched travellers share stories.
Riding Through the Clouds
The true test came when I set out for Nubra Valley via Khardung-La.
The climb was steep, the air thin, and every turn felt like a gamble. But when I finally reached the top, standing at 18,380 feet, I felt unstoppable.
The world stretched endlessly before me and the clouds moved so close that it felt as though I could reach out and touch them. I had never felt so small yet more alive.
Descending into Nubra, I saw something that made me laugh in disbelief - camels in the Himalayas. The sight of double-humped Bactrian camels walking across cold desert sand was surreal.
I took a ride, and as the sun set, painting the dunes in shades of gold, I realised that we did not get a chance to experience such beauty in our daily lives.
The Journey Pangong Lake
The road to Pangong Lake was both challenging and mesmerising. Each turn brought a new landscape, and each mile took me deeper into the unknown.
And then, there it was.
The lake.
An endless stretch of blue, untouched and pure, reflecting the sky like a mirror. The stillness of the place, interrupted only by the occasional flutter of prayer flags, created a rare sense of tranquillity.
It was a place to pause, to take in the sheer beauty of nature, and to reflect on the journey so far. Travellers gathered along the shore, some in quiet contemplation, while others captured the moment through cameras. Yet, no photograph could truly capture the essence of standing there, surrounded by nothing but nature’s raw beauty.
The night at Pangong was cold, but under a sky filled with stars, it was easy to forget everything else. The Milky Way stretched overhead, and the world seemed infinite for a while.
The Road Back
The return journey led through Sarchu, where an evening around a bonfire with fellow travellers turned into a night of shared experiences. Stories of past trips, dreams of future ones, and reflections on what travel truly meant filled the air.
One traveller summed it up perfectly, “After Ladakh, the world feels different. Or maybe, we are the ones who change.”
When we reached Manali, the sight of lush green valleys felt almost unfamiliar after days in the barren beauty of Ladakh. It was a reminder of how diverse landscapes could be, and how each had its own way of leaving an impact.
Read More: Thrillophilia Leh Ladakh Reviews